Welcome to Dressing The Atlantic World: A Simple Hand-Sewn Petticoat, for work or play c. 1760-1785.

Agostino Brunias, 1728–1796, Italian, active in Britain (1758–70; 1777-80s), A West Indian Flower Girl and Two other Free Women of Color, ca. 1769, Oil on canvas, Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Collection, B1981.25.75. Public Domain.

Agostino Brunias, 1728–1796, Italian, active in Britain (1758–70; 1777-80s), A West Indian Flower Girl and Two other Free Women of Color, ca. 1769, Oil on canvas, Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Collection, B1981.25.75. Public Domain.

Workshop overview

In this pre-recorded workshop you will learn how to make a simple, hand-sewn petticoat inspired by the designs worn in The Atlantic World, c.1760-1785. We will be using a light-weight fabric such as linen, linen/cotton, wool/cotton, linen/wool or worsted wool. This petticoat is intended to not be worn over hoops and is ideal for wearing in a hot climate or for physical work. The construction details taught in this class are based off of my study of a variety of extant petticoats from this time period and my 10-years of experience studying and stitching 18th-century style clothing by hand. To learn more about your teacher, Sarah Woodyard click here.

This style of petticoat is seen across classes, cultures and races within the context of a colonized Atlantic World. What makes it expensive (or not) is the fabric choice. What will make it appropriate for work or for play is based on the fabric choice and the length of the petticoat. It is important to remember that these petticoats were worn by people and made by human hands, some free and some enslaved. It was an article of clothing, not a costume. For more context I will be hosting a free lecture, August 17th to put this petticoat design in context of the time it existed within.

Print made by James Bretherton, ca. 1730–1806, British, A Maid, 1774 Yale Center for British Art, B1977.14.11163. Public Domain.

Print made by James Bretherton, ca. 1730–1806, British, A Maid, 1774 Yale Center for British Art, B1977.14.11163. Public Domain.

Workshop format

This workshop is organized in a series of sections with a pre-recorded, close-captioned video as the key manner of instruction. I strongly encourage you to watch the video before you start sewing. This class is designed for you to go at your own pace using the pre-recorded videos for instruction. Pause, rewatch and review to hone your petticoat sewing skills. The goal of this class is to teach you to hand-sew a petticoat without using a pattern.

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 Petticoat Order of Operations

  1. Measure and fill out measurement sheet.

  2. Cut out two petticoat panels.

  3. Practice sewing techniques.

  4. Mark and hem four pocket slits (two on the front panel and two on the back panel).

  5. Sew your two side seams with a mantua-makers hem (seam).

  6. Hem your petticoat.

  7. Pleat the front panel, baste and stitch pleats into place.

  8. Pleat the back panel, baste and stitch pleats into place.

  9. Attach waistband on front panel.

  10. Attach waistband on back panel.

  11. Put it on and spin around!

 

Materials and Supplies List

Textile: lightweight to medium weight linen, worsted wool, cotton or a blend of these fibers like wool/cotton, wool/linen, linen/cotton in color of your choosing (5 to 8 ounces).

Width: MUST BE 54” to 62” wide. We are using one width for the front of the petticoat and one width of the fabric for the back of the petticoat and we want the circumference of the petticoat to be approximately 110” to 120” around the body.

Yardage: Find the length of your petticoat here on the measurement sheet and multiply that number by 2 to find how much yardage you need. I typically buy 2.5 to 3 yards when I get fabric for a petticoat.

Waistband: 3/4 wide linen tape, figure out how many yards to buy after your measure your waist here and fill out your measurement sheet here. To give you a sense of the amount I used a total of four yards for the front and the back of the petticoat made in this class.

  • You can buy a roll of 10 yards here or by the yard here.

Thread: Linen, for lightweight to medium weight textiles I would use 80/2, 80/3.

  • Great selection here!

  • Do not forget the beeswax for coating your thread here!

Needles: I’d recommend size 9 “sharps,” “appliqué,” or “embroidery” needles.

  • I love Bohin needles. Get them here!

Pins: 

  • My preference is fine dressmakers pins that are 1 1/4 long. I love Iris brand. You can find them here.

Dressmakers shears: 8 inches.

  • My favorite shears are from William Whiteley and Co. in England who preserve the scissor making craft. Buy them here!

Small snips: Look for “embroidery” scissors.

  • My favorite small scissors are from William Whiteley and Co. in England who preserve the scissor making craft. Buy them here!

Soft measuring tape

Pencil or chalk

Thimble (optional but encouraged): Should fit on the middle finger of your dominate hand. Not too tight but not too loose it falls off. Learn how to use one here!

  • Where to buy: Antique malls, eBay, etsy, Lacis has a fantastic stock here.

 Measuring For Petticoat

  1. Click on image of measuring guide to download and print it out. Read all notes.

  2. Watch video below walking your through how to measure for your petticoat and waistband.

Cutting Out Petticoat

  1. Watch video to learn how to cut out petticoat using your measurements without using a pattern.

Sewing Practice

 To make this petticoat you will need to know several stitches. Please practice your ergonomic sewing technique, thimble technique, running stitching, hemming/felling and spaced-backstitch before you move onto the sewing the petticoat. Even if you have watched them before please review and practice your technique.

Threading a Needle and Knotting Thread:

Good Hand-Sewing Technique (hand position and posture):

Right handed:

Left handed:

How To Use a Thimble:

Left Handed:

Right handed:

Running Stitches (Basting):

Right handed:

Left handed:

Hemming/Felling:

Right handed:

Left handed:

Spaced Backstitch:

Left handed:

Right Handed:

 Hemming Pocket Slits

18th-century petticoats worn in The Atlantic World did not have pockets included in them. Instead, separate pockets were attached underneath. To access these pockets the top 10” (25 cm) to 12” (30 cm) of the side seams are left open and the raw edges hemmed. In this section the video will walk you through:

  1. Mark your pocket slits

  2. Hem your pocket slits

Right handed:

Left handed:

 Sewing Side Seams Using A Mantua-Maker’s Hem

In this section watch the video below to sew your two side seams. The side seams will be stitched with a “Mantua-maker’s Hem.” It is a technique that encases the raw edges while sewing the side seam. You hem the seam, hence it is called a “Mantua-maker’s Hem” in the Workwoman’s Guide from 1838. It is used on lightweight fabric in the later 18th-century through the early 19th-century.

Sewing Side Seams:

Right handed:

Left handed:

 Hemming the Petticoat

Watch the video below for instruction on how to hem the petticoat. You will do a 1/2” (1.25 cm) hem. Make sure you keep the hem on the grain line.

Hemming

Left handed:

Right handed:

 Pleating the Petticoat

In this section we will take the broad waist panel and pleat it down to the correct dimension. Please have the “pleating formula” in the “Petticoat Measuring Guide” on hand. In this section you will:

  1. Pleat the front panel.

  2. Baste and stitch it down.

  3. Pleat the back panel.

  4. Baste and stitch it down.

    Please watch “Pleating the Front Panel” first as I go into detail of pleating technique.

    1. Pleat the front:

2. Stitch Down Pleats

Right handed:

Left handed:

3. Pleat the Back:

4. Stitch Down the Pleats:

(Use same video instructions as above)

 Attaching the Waistbands

You will need your linen waistband ties for this section. In this section you will stitch the woven linen waistbands to the front and back of the pleated waist. They are used to bind the top of the waist and simultaneously be used as ties to tie the petticoat around the waist. You will:

  1. Stitch the waistband to the front panel.

  2. Stitch the waistband to the back panel.

Follow this video for instructions on how to bind the top of the front and back panels:

Attaching Waistband:

Left handed:

Right handed:

Congratulations on finishing your petticoat!! Put it on and twirl around!

Special thanks to Victoria Tolson for modeling her new petticoat.

 Workshop Survey